002: "sukoshi wakarimasu."

It took an 11:40 flight to Tokyo, a 2-hour layover in Narita International Airport, a 2:40 flight to Naha, a 15-minute ride on the Yui Monorail, and a 15-minute walk to my hostel after dark. . . but I’m here!

I arrived at LAX at about 10am, far too early for my 12:55pm flight. Security had ushered me through as fast as possible, even neglecting to make a comment on the quart-size bag of liquids I accidentally forgot to take out. Whew! Not that I need too much for a 2-week stay, but I definitely stocked up on the sunblock. I don’t want to leave as a gaijin and return as a lobster.

On my flights, I met a number of interesting characters: a London businessman who had resided in Tokyo for four months, an undergraduate majoring in Business and Chinese who was visiting friends in Shippuya, and an American student of jijutsu who came to learn the secrets of a style unique to Okinawa. I exchanged smiles and nods with the Japanese travelers, too anxious to try speaking Japanese myself. Besides, I could get around even if I didn’t speak very well . . . right?

Sukiyaki from the flight. . . you could see the native passengers were not too impressed, but I was starving.

Well, almost right.

At Narita, I managed to get ridiculously lost not once, not twice, but multiple times. And I do mean ridiculously. At one point, I realized that everyone around me was dressed in suits and a kind stewardess informed me that I was headed to the pilot headquarters, not Gate E as I had thought. It was a miracle that I made it to my gate in time to catch my connecting flight! Yet, I did, and I even had enough time to sit down and relax for a few minutes. As soon as I boarded, I passed out and didn’t wake up until we touched ground—the landing was extraordinarily smooth.

View from my ANA flight, before I knocked out for 3 hours.

By the time I arrived at Miebashi Station in Naha, I was exhausted, sweaty, and thoroughly lost yet again. Turns out, it’s very difficult to decipher Okinawan street signs at night—if there are any that I could even read. Luckily, I had printed out a map beforehand and could direct myself using secondary landmarks such as the curvature of the street, certain restaurants, and the like. So I lugged myself and my two carry-on bags over to the bright gold Guesthouse Kerama—now was the moment of truth!

Only I found myself paralyzed at the corner. Looking inside, I could tell that there was not even one other Caucasian present. And here I was, a tiny white girl with dark eyebags and a sunhat dragging luggage half her size. Oops.

Yet, I eventually found my courage—a passing bicyclist worried for my health startled me from my introspection—and I briskly stepped up to the door and slid it aside. As expected, fifteen pairs of eyes immediately latched on me. The other travelers had been sprawled out across the common room, which contains a television, gaming system, public computer, and kitchen. Finally, one man stepped forward—well-tanned and tall, with dark, quick eyes—and stared at me directly. I knew he was the manager instantly.

Turning bright red, I managed a weak “おはよう“ (good morning) which he immediately corrected with a brisk “こんばんは”(good evening). He then took me to the desk, jotting down notes and then inquiring if I spoke Japanese at all. When I replied that I knew a little, he shook his head but checked me in and took my payment for the next five nights. Then, he gave me a brief tour of the facilities in mixed English/Japanese: I have a bottom bunk with three blankets, a pillow, and tatami mat curtains (although I am missing one); a shared shower and bathroom; and the common room, obviously. The bunk is located in a dormitory with about eleven other women, and is quite noisy! I woke up at 2am thinking that I had overslept and it was midday; a few hours later, I heard a cat fight taking place outside my window (note: actual cat fight, not my fellow female travelers getting fed up with one another). Still, it’s cozy, and I slept decently well despite the noise.

All in all, I made it through Day One. My biggest issue so far has been finding confidence as a solo traveler, a lone Caucasian, and a beginning speaker of Japanese. I expect this all to improve within the next few days, however.

またあした！